If a discount is presented, it describes the difference between the first term and renewal term subscription prices (e.g., first year price vs.After that, your subscription will be billed at the applicable renewal price which may be higher than the initial purchase price The price offered is valid for the first year of subscription.24/7 security all-subscription long without interruption.Opt out at any time so that you are always in control of your renewal options.Save time while we are taking care of the automatic renewal process.Peace of mind that your devices are always protected.Free upgrades whenever a new version of Bitdefender comes out.Continuous protection so that you never have to worry about your subscription running out before you renew manually.None of the wiring is permanent and just plugs into the existing harnesses so can be removed at any time, although I don't think I ever would. The existing window power (from the window switch) connects to the coil on the relay so it closes the contacts when the switch is activated, sending fresh 12 volt power to the motor. I ran new power from an auxiliary fuse panel behind the washer bag to one side of the contact in each relay and the other side of the contact hooks to the original wiring to the motor. The relay harnesses are made up with mating connectors to the existing in the car and just plug in. The rear window relays are in the trunk and the front ones are inside the console in the space on either side of the ventilation controls. Motors, switches, cleaning contacts and connectors helped by they never really worked as they should. My windows all worked, but very poorly and so slowly that I often felt I needed to grab them and help by pulling them up. Add that to old wires, poor connectors and bad ground points and it is amazing that most work at all. The contact area in those crappy switches is probably less than 1/32' in diameter even at the best of times (and many are well corroded now). Remember though, that the if the voltage is down even a few volts, the motor will be a lot less efficient. The motors need a lot of current to get moving, but not nearly as much to keep going. They heat up as current passes through them and the voltage drops so that the window will slow down as it reaches the end of the travel and won't slam into the stops. The resistors are really a resistance wire that is the ground.

I try to always have the car running when using them. I can see where they would get to the point where the engine had to be running to get sufficient voltage & current. I have considered installing relays to get full power to them but at least they work so I'll keep them as-is for now. You can make them run better by using some dry film lubricant on the rubber seals (as mentioned in the FSM) but they will never work like modern power windows. I measured a significant voltage drop (expected). Then I attached them to the factory wiring and they just crawled, especially at the mid point of travel.

Seriously, you could chop mellons with them. After all this work, I connected the window directly to a battery and it about jumped out of my hands. The movement of the back window is limited by resistor wires and undersized wiring (for safety & motor longevity and because Ford engineering sucked). I also put in new motors, guide wheels and switches. I polished the tracks so they were buttery smooth and ran the windows up and down in them while making minute adjustments. I very thoroughly went through the back window assemblies by straighening, cleaning, adjusting and lubricating the mechanical assembly. My back windows had been dead for more than 30 years.

65 thunderbird power windows